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Day 73: Gaeta to Miseno

It’s so hot at night that a sleeping bag hasn’t been necessary. I just lie on my roll mat inside the liner of my tent, which keeps the mozzies out, but even with this set up it’s sweltering. When I went for a swim in the night to cool off, the water around me exploded with light, bioluminescent plankton sparkling like the stars. It was amazing.

Through the night there was a pitter patter of rocks landing on the pebbles from the cliffs above, and I became paranoid that a huge chunk was going to  shear off and bury me alive. I moved my tent under an overhang, but my imagination stopped me getting much sleep.

I woke up at 4 and lit a fire to keep the mozzies away, and then cooked a mushroom and cheese omelette. The sea had eroded away the base of the cliffs to create a notch under the water, and I enjoyed swimming along this watching the fish that had made it their home.

A surfski paddler called Mariano was in Gaeta for a sailing regatta and I met him in the marina where he arranged for me to stay at a canoe club in Bacoli that night. This was going to be a long day, but a nice tailwind was forecast and I’d be avoiding a section of coast where it was apparently not safe to camp.

I left at 11 and cut across the Gulf of Gaeta, taking the most direct line. Over the course of the 70kms or 8 hours I had a rollercoaster of emotions from feeling invincible to feeling very vulnerable. I’m getting used to the exposure of paddling 15km offshore, but I had a newly inserted, uncalibrated dexcom on so I was anxious about my sugars at times. The last headland seemed to never get any closer, and then it was a real drag to Bacoli.

My contact, Allesandro, told me to wait at a beach, and I didn’t have a clue what was going on when a bunch of people turned up in kayaks and set up a party. I had no food and after 70km all I wanted was to eat and sleep. It turned out this was an evening kayak trip that people pay to go on, run by Lorenzo, a friend of Allesandro’s. There was a strict one sausage rule but I was secretly given a second, and then we paddled back to the club.

By the time all the kayaks had been put away it was 2am and I was exhausted. I’m grateful for everyone helping, but I was just too tired to enjoy this. So thank you Lorenzo, Allesandro and Cania club Napoli. I managed to see the funny side and went to a bar with Lorenzo, and then finally fell asleep in the canoe club.


Due to Brexit I’m being forced to make some plans, something I really don’t like doing. I can only stay in the EU for 90 days, which means when I’ve finished my insulin 360 challenge, I will have to spend the next 90 days somewhere else before I can return. My options:

  • Get a visa – you can’t get a tourist visa in Italy.
  • Overstay – too risky
  • Go back to the UK for 90 days, do something useful, then return on 28th November
  • Get my boat to Albania/Croatia (which don’t count towards 90 days)

I think it’s possible for me to paddle to the port of Brindisi/Bari and catch a ferry across to Croatia before insulin 360 starts. I could then spend at least 90 days paddling North up Croatia and renter Italy to spend my next 90 heading South.

However, I don’t like the time pressure of having to get to Brindisi and I will miss out on Sicily.

If I paddled across the Gulf of Taranto (pink arrow) this would save 300km. It’s a 100km crossing, so I couldn’t do this alone – if anyone would be up for this please get in touch. Alternatively I could get a lift in a car towards Brindisi if someone was willing to drive me.

I think I’ll carry on as normal, pushing big distances across the boring bits and enjoying the nice bits, and when I get to Calabria I’ll be able to make the decision. If you have any ideas, please get in touch!

Diabetes

Usual story: my dexcom wasn’t working. So I replaced the sensor – let’s hope this one works. It takes a while to calibrate so although it looks like I was high all day, when it says 12 I was actually at 7.

Some people ask why I don’t use an insulin pump instead of injecting, and this is the answer. Just like the dexcom, this technology goes wrong alot, especially when it’s being put through a trial like this.


4 responses to “Day 73: Gaeta to Miseno”

  1. Peter Mortimer avatar

    Hi again, Dougal. You seem to be at a real turning point at present. Maybe that explains why you seem to have gone off air in the past 48 hours. I hope all is well…? Your previous two posts have been really absorbing – some fascinating introspection. It made me think of the book, and in particular the film, Life of Pi. I wonder if you’ve seen it, Looking forward to your new posts as you head for Calabria. All the best, Peter

    1. glaisherdougal avatar
      glaisherdougal

      Hi Peter, just published day 74. I’ve been busy in Naples and not feeling great with my diabetes, sorry for the absence. The bioluminescence did make me think of Life of Pi too!

  2. Michael Butler avatar
    Michael Butler

    Gosh Dougal, decision, decisions……Good luck and we hope that you end with the right one!
    GP

    1. glaisherdougal avatar
      glaisherdougal

      Thanks Grandpa, I think it will be decided for me x

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