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Day 28: Castets-en-Dorthe to Villeton
The day felt chilly at first and wisps of mist swirled over the surface of the canal. I chatted to the cycle tourists and then set off. I’ve done very little research so don’t know what to expect on this next section, it’s quite exciting. The weed in the canal was all stretched towards me,…
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Day 27: Port Barsac to Castets-en-Dorthe
The last few nights I haven’t slept much so I was happy to wake at 9.30. It did mean however, that I’d missed the morning tide. I quite easily filled the day with eating, stretching, blogging, faffing and going for a walk. I left at 4 pm when, by my calculations, the tide should’ve been…
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Day 26: Bordeaux to Port de Barsac
I ended up sleeping on some scaffolding above the restaurant under the shelter of the roof. While it was nice to stay dry as rain hammered down, I woke up at 4 am, my face and hands puffy with mosquito bites. I spent another couple of tormented hours with mozzies whining around my face before…
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Day 25: Pauillac to Bordeaux
I spent the morning walking the streets of Pauillac. People paced hurriedly between shopfront canopies or held umbrellas, the day grey and rainy. Pauillac produces some of the best wine in Bordeaux, but not much else goes on there. I sampled the boulangerie and chatted to the harbour master while I waited for the tide…
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Day 24: Royan to Pauillac
I had a great evening with Paul at his home in Royan. All of the home comforts are a joy after camping, but what I really like about staying with people is getting to chat. I heard about some of Paul’s travels and paddling adventures and he shared some useful tips for the next part…
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Day 23: Côte Sauvage to Royan
I woke before light and had everything packed to leave at 8 am, timing my day to paddle up the Gironde with the tide. Out at sea, there was a rolling swell but no white horses. The swell was then slamming down in a defined line on a sand bank about 100 metres off the…
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Day 22: Saint-Marie-de-Re (Île de Re) to Côte Sauvage
I felt pretty exhausted so had a relaxed rest day on Île de Re. I went for a cycle ride and successfully got lost trying to find my way back home. The white gravel tracks and tiny roads are lovely to cycle on, but rather disorientating! We had a very special seafood supper to celebrate…
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Day 21: Plage de Saint-Denis d’Oléron (Île de Re) to Saint-Marie-de-Re (Île de Re)
I departed at 9 am and hugged the shore, seeking what little shelter the low lying island provides from a crosswind. Great memories flooded back as I paddled along. It feels like a dream ago that I stayed on Île de Re, yet it also seems as clear as yesterday. I was lucky enough to…
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Day 20: Les Sables-d’Olonne to Plage de Saint-Denis d’Oléron (Île de Re)
I lay cocooned in my sleeping bag, the morning sun making me sweat into my already sticky clothes. Days of the week don’t matter to me, but I could tell it was a Sunday morning from the sound of trainers pounding the promenade. I walked to the boulangerie and bought a thick wedge of apricot…
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Day 19: Barbâtre to Les Sables d’Olonne
I left Brittany behind me a couple of days ago and it really feels like I’m in a different country now. The shoreline has changed, sand dunes stretching into the distance now. Towns are nestled in pine forests, church spires and water towers giving away their location. The water is bath like and the air…